Trinidad

Enchanting cobblestone streets, horse-drawn carriages, pastel-colored buildings, inviting plazas… this is Trinidad, Cuba’s colorful colonial city.  Being one of North America’s best preserved historic towns, it’s vast center covering 50 blocks, is often referred to as the “museum of Cuba.”  And even though Trinidad is definitely on the tourist track, it hasn’t lost its charm… in the evenings the friendly Trinitarios sit outside their front doors to gossip with their neighbors, live music fills the streets and the narrow alleys dotted with elegant colonial-style mansions beckon you to get lost on a stroll.  This UNESCO World Heritage site is one of Cuba’s magical places and an absolute must for an enchanting trip back in time.

Sitting near the southern coast in Central Cuba, Trinidad is part of the Sancti Spirítus province and is surrounded by the Escambray Mountains to the north, the Valle de los Ingenios to the east and the beautiful, white sand Playa Ancon to the south.  This town was one of the country’s first to be founded by the Spanish and the population expanded quickly at the beginning of the 18th century as thousands of slaves were brought in to work on the sugar plantations in the neighboring valley.  Trinidad’s wealth skyrocketed as sugar cane fortunes were quickly amassed, funding the town’s extravagant palaces and impressive mansions.   Now the main business is tobacco processing, but tourism has also been a large source of income.

We arrived in Trinidad late afternoon and couldn’t wait to get out to start exploring.  The casa particular we’re staying at is centrally located and our host family speaks very minimal English so it gives us an opportunity to put our Spanish skills to the test.  Racing against the sunset, we headed straight to the Museo Histórico Municipal, the city’s main museum which is more famously known for its striking views of Trinidad than for its historical exhibits.  The grandiose yellow mansion sits just off Plaza Mayor and climbing the narrow, rickety stairs of the attached bell tower will reward you with beautiful panoramas of the surrounding countryside.  We couldn’t have timed it more perfectly, getting to witness a stunning Cuban sunset that painted the horizon in pastels.

We wandered through Plaza Mayor, the heart of this Spanish Colonial city, lined with churches, restaurants and home to a wide set of stairs where it seems like everyone has the same idea… grab a beer, take a load off and people watch.  So we decided to join the crowd while enjoying the laid back atmosphere as this city seems to come even more alive after dark.

Tres Cruces (Three Crosses), a centrally located residential neighborhood in Trinidad, is known for being one of the most beautiful parts of town thanks to the perfect rainbow of pastel colored homes. A stroll through the streets will allow you to witness the locals going about their everyday life and during our visit, we stumbled upon a group of kids playing baseball, so we decided to join them.  It was a really fun experience connecting with the local children while the parents watched from their porch steps across the street.  I had planned on bringing some presents with me to give to the locals and baseballs were one of the things on my list because I know the Cubans love their baseball.  At the last minute, I decided against it after reading some blogs saying it was frowned upon… but in that moment I really wish I had brought gifts with me to give to the adorable little kids.  These are the type of experiences I seek out when I travel… just a brief interaction like this makes my heart feel fuller.

On our full day in Trinidad, we headed fifteen minutes south to Playa Ancón, widely regarded as the best beach on Cuba’s southern coast.  A wide arc of white sand stretching four kilometers in length is home to three all-inclusive properties, chairs and umbrellas for hire and even food and drink available for purchase that can be delivered right to your chair… like rum-infused coconuts, yum!!  But even with all of this, Ancón beach is known for being less crowded and offers a great opportunity to have a peaceful, relaxing day soaking up that Caribbean sun. 

On our last morning in town, we decided to get athletic, so we headed to Topes De Collantes National Park nestled high up in Cuba’s second largest mountain range, the Sierra del Escambray.  This beautiful nature oasis, about an hour from Trinidad, features a 7km trail to Salto del Caburni, one of the area’s most popular waterfalls.  The hike there is mostly downhill but don’t get too confident as it’s all uphill coming back.  The waterfall itself is said to be Cuba’s tallest at roughly 70 meters, but it won’t be the most impressive you’ve seen… it’s more like a water trickle!  Although to be fair, we were there in February, Cuba’s driest month of the year!  The real reward is the natural pools at Caburni’s base which invite you to cool off before you start the trek back up the mountain.  We really enjoyed exploring this undeveloped part of Cuba, giving us an opportunity to see more of this intriguing country outside the city limits.

Trinidad is home to many popular dining options, so with just two nights, we found it difficult to decide where to eat.  We ended up at Paladar Sol y Son our first night, a longstanding favorite housed in a 19th century home that looks more like an antiques dealer and is known for their authentic Cuban cuisine.  On our second night we hit La Bodeguita del Medio, a well-known Cuban establishment whose Havana location was a favorite of Ernest Hemingway.  In addition to a good dinner, I got an impromptu salsa session as our waiter spun me around the restaurant in front of the other diners.  Good thing I’m not opposed to being the center of attention, lol. 

Trinidad doesn’t have as many nightlife options as Havana, but sometimes quality trumps quantity, right?  Disco Ayala is a town favorite… a nightclub that’s literally built inside a cave.  It’s worth the effort to see the venue, which includes a long walk up a deserted hill at the northern edge of town that feels like you’re headed to the middle of nowhere.  Fellow club goers making the same trek reassure you you’re on the right path, which leads to the mouth of a cave.  After waiting in line, the bouncer will check your ID and send you down a steep flight of steps descending deep into the cave where you’ll find three bars, five dance floors and the beats pumping.  It was a cool experience and a fun night out!

We hired a private driver to transport us the four hours from Havana to Trinidad and back. But be warned… like most Island cultures, the Cubans aren’t punctual.  Our driver was over two hours late arriving at our Trinidad Airbnb with no heads up or arrival update.  We were stuck there waiting, which was very frustrating.  So be sure to factor in some extra time to deal with these types of delays.  But it was definitely worth the 8-hour round trip drive to see more of the Cuba’s countryside and the charming colonial town of Trinidad.