The Garden Route

The Garden route, boasting some of the most inspiring scenery in South Africa, was any easy addition to our itinerary.  With more than 200 kilometers of dense forests, lakes and lagoons, pristine beaches, steep cliffs jutting into the sea and intriguing wildlife, this region offers plenty of fascinating activities and opportunities to connect with nature. 

Driving four hours east from the Cape Winelands, our first stop was Mossel Bay, the official start of the Garden Route.  Coming into town just as the sun was setting, we settled in at our hotel and then headed to Kaai 4 Braai, an outdoor, waterfront dining experience featuring South Africa’s style of Bar-B-Que.  Sitting at wooden picnic tables enjoying the ambience with the open fire blazing in the background, I knew we were having one of this country’s authentic experiences.  And let me promise you, South Africa knows how to BBQ.

Bright and early the next morning we timidly arrived at White Shark Africa, where we would be getting on a boat with random strangers to swim with great whites.  After signing our life away, we made our way down to the dock and took off for Seal Island Reserve, a large rock just 6km from the shoreline populated by more than 2,500 Cape Fur Seals and therefore surrounded by great whites looking for their next meal.

As we approached the island, the crew started thrashing baits of chum over the side of the boat to entice the sharks. That infamous fin appeared so instantaneously; it was magical, yet daunting all at the same time.

My parents were part of the second group to get in the cage, a metal rectangle hanging off the side of the boat with wide openings between the bars.  So you really have to be conscious of where you’re putting your hands and feet because if you’re not careful, one of your limbs could become the next shark snack.  After being unsure they had the courage to get in, I was so proud to see them in the water… and they definitely got their money’s worth as an aggressive shark tried to attack the cage going after the GoPro of the man who was crammed in next to them. The shark, open mouth and all, was literally right in their face.  I thought for sure they’d be scarred from the experience and mad at me for getting them into this in the first place… oops, lol.

I was in the last group to get in the cage and being that it’s a hold your breath method, you have to pull yourself down below the surface when the sharks swim by.  While being face to face with these magnificent creatures underwater is an unrivaled encounter, I actually found the shark viewing from the boat deck to be more exciting.  From the side of the boat, I was so close I could see scratches on their skin and the sharpness of their teeth as they thrashed around trying to bite down on the bait.  It was an incredible experience and another check off the bucket list. 

Back on land, we headed west for the hour and a half trip from Mossel Bay to Knysna, stopping halfway for lunch in the vacation town of Wilderness. Known for its wide, white sand beaches backed by wooded hills, we detoured to the top of those hills for a glimpse of the Map of Africa, a piece of land that appears to be perfectly shaped after the African continent thanks to the flow of the Kaaimans River Basin.

Continuing along the coast, Knysna is the heart of the Garden Route and our home base for the next three nights to explore more of the region to the east.  Our first destination was the Elephant Sanctuary outside of Plettenberg Bay, one of three in South Africa acting as a safe haven for elephants harmed or left as orphans in the wild. 

We had the opportunity to walk hand in trunk with these intelligent and compassionate animals spending an hour learning more about them as we nestled up next to them and fed them chunks of fruit.  It was an unforgettable experience that left me questioning how or why anyone would be capable of poaching these gentle giants.

Another twenty minutes east we watched from a distance as the adrenaline junkies leaped from Bloukrans Bridge, one of the world’s highest commercial bridge bungy’s.  My mom made me promise I wouldn’t do it, which I was kind of thankful to use as an excuse, because just the thought of getting out onto Africa’s highest bridge was terrifying.

Heading back southwest along the coast, we arrived in Plettenberg Bay, a seaside resort town popular with South Africa’s wealthy.  The impressive summer homes lining the cliffs overlooking the ocean are commonly referred to as Millionaire’s Row and while “Plett” normally gets very crowded in season, visiting in late spring made us feel like we had the place to ourselves. 

We drove out to Robberg Nature Reserve, a rocky peninsula on the west side of town with a trio of hiking trails offering rugged views of the coastline.  We did the shortest circuit to maximize time, but detoured a bit out of the way to enjoy a beachy cove and put our feet in the Indian Ocean. 

In Knysna, we meandered around the popular Knysna lagoon, home to waterfront restaurants surrounding the marina and packed with tourists.  But it’s hard to argue with the appeal when the sunset paints the sky shades of pink with the headlands framing the channel out to the Indian Ocean as the backdrop.

These rocky cliffs are known as the “Knysna Heads” and are a famous landmark along the Garden Route.  Unfortunately Knysna recently suffered back-to-back devastating wild fires, leaving the normally lush green landscape burnt and barren.  The views looking back at the lagoon and across the channel from the lookout point on the eastern side are still stunning and I can only imagine how much more beautiful it was before the fires.

Regrettably I came down with a stomach bug the day we were exploring Knysna and the surrounding area, which kept me horizontal and doubled over for most of the day, ending in a trip to the South African ER… not ideal!  But I was determined not to miss out, so I laid in the backseat of the rental car as my parents explored the area, popping my head up whenever possible to catch the spectacular views and getting out of the backseat to take photos when I was feeling good enough to stand up straight.

We drove out to Buffalo Bay Beach, a peaceful little village that has been spared from the masses with vast stretches of flawless beaches.  Brenton on the Sea is another popular off the beaten path destination and it was here that we watched our last South African sunset…. well at least this time around!