Lyon
A gastronomic mecca, excellent museums, a rich history, world-class art, a flourishing University, fantastic shopping, a busy nightlife scene… Bienvenue à Lyon! France’s third largest city can sometimes be forgotten in the shadow of Paris, but those in the know who make Lyon a stop on their itinerary will be rewarded with a fascinating cultural and culinary experience. Full disclosure… I wasn’t in the know until I learned that our ski trip included two days here and I started doing research on what to see and do while we were in town. I was quickly appreciative of our opportunity to spend time in this captivating city.
Sitting at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône Rivers, Lyon, one of France’s oldest cities, was founded 2,000 years ago and has an intriguing history. Dating back to Roman times, it served as a major communications hub and is home to one of Europe’s largest Renaissance districts, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, Vieux Lyon. After building it’s fortune on the silk trade, the city has been a commercial, industrial and banking powerhouse for the past 500 years and is the birthplace of cinema.
But what Lyon is best known for is it’s cuisine. It’s earned a reputation as the culinary capital of France, but some even argue it’s home to the best food in the world. Either way, gourmets will be in heaven indulging in their gastronomic fantasies at a never-ending selection of eateries. Eugénie Brazier made Lyonnaise cuisine a national phenomenon with the French elite when she became the first woman to earn three Michelin stars and the first chef to have two restaurants awarded this coveted distinction. Paul Bocuse, who trained under her watchful eye and is now Lyon’s most famous chef revered as a god of French cuisine, turned the Lyonnaise culinary tradition into a worldwide success. Ironically, Bocuse passed away the Saturday we were in town at the age of 91.
Today, the city of Lyon is home to 19 Michelin-starred restaurants and if you have any desire to dine at one of these coveted options, be sure to make reservations weeks in advance of your visit. However, if you can’t get a table, it’s not the end of the world because the smaller restaurants, called bouchons, are where young chefs offer exceptional culinary delights at reasonable prices in a more relaxed, casual setting, are just as exciting and not to be missed. You can also visit Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, a food market named after France’s culinary king, which offers a hand-picked selection of the region’s best food merchants selling cheese, meat, fruit and vegetables. And with a handful of sit-down restaurants to chose from, you can have a great lunch here without having to worry about a reservation.
When you’re not enjoying the infamous food scene, there are plenty of non-eating activities to keep you busy. Stroll through Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon), the city’s intriguing, pedestrian-only, historic core that gives you a peak back in time at the Renaissance era. Explore the traboules, narrow passageways running under the buildings in the direction of the Saône River, which were used 
for transporting textiles during the silk reign. Hike up to the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviére, perched high up on the hill above Old Lyon overlooking the entire city. This beautiful church honoring the Virgin Mary is worth a visit to see the extravagant interior of mosaics and stained glass windows, but 
even more so for the stunning views of the city. Climb the north tower or visit the Esplanade de Fourviére… the city will be laid out before you and, on a clear day, the snow-capped Alps will be visible off in the distance.
If you’re into museums, there are plenty here to occupy your time… there’s the Museum of Fine Arts of Lyon, regarded as one of the most important in Europe showcasing France’s best collection of sculptures and paintings outside of Paris. The Gallo-Roman Museum, the Museum of Textiles and Decorative Arts, the Gadagne Museum, the Museum of Miniature and Cinema. If you’re a film lover, check out the Institut Lumière, the birthplace of cinematography where you can watch an old classic. If you’re fascinated by Lyon’s history in the silk trade, visit L’Atelier de Solerie, a family-owned silk workshop still doing silk-screen printing by hand where you can stop by and witness the process happening before your eyes and maybe pick up a few scarves while you’re at it.
Falling into the “Museum only when necessary for the cultural experience” category and being in Lyon just two short days, I didn’t take the time to visit any of Lyon’s museums. Instead, we wondered around the city, enjoying the different neighborhoods and getting lost in the cobblestone alleys. We walked along the Saône River, admiring the colorful buildings lining it’s western edge. We browsed store windows, stopping in a few to shop. And given that one of our two days in Lyon was rainy and damp, we didn’t feel guilty about taking a break, or several, to pop in at cute little cafes and enjoy a glass of local wine. With the well-known wine producing region of Beaujolais neighboring Lyon to the north, you’re guaranteed to have great local vin selections on every menu in town.
Having both a Friday and Saturday night in town, we decided to check out Lyon’s nightlife scene. We hit Docks 40, a chic restaurant that turns into a nightclub after dinner and is one of the city’s hot spots to see and be seen, especially on a Friday night. DJ Kling∆nde was spinning and we had a blast pumping fists with the Lyonnais. On Saturday night, we headed to Place des Terreaux, one of Lyon’s most beautiful and significant cultural hubs. This square is home to City Hall, the Fine Arts Museum and the Terreaux Fountain, all of which are even more stunning when spotlit after dark. Even in the cold of mid-January, the square was filled with people sitting outside one of the several bar options, cuddled up in blankets enjoying good conversation and drinks. This area is one of Lyon’s liveliest nightlife districts with tons of restaurants and cafes and it’s easy to see the appeal.
So even on a cold, rainy, winter day, Lyon is charming and I can only imagine what this city must be like in the spring, summer and fall. I’d love to come back again, now that I’m “Lyon Educated” and can make reservations for one (or several) of the Michelin star restaurants in advance. Good food, good wine, good culture… what’s not to like?!? Lyon might get lost in the shadow of Paris, but that’s okay… for all of us in the know, it can be our little secret.