Havana
OMG, we’ve landed in Cuba!! My adrenaline is on overload knowing we’re visiting a country that has been forbidden to US citizens for 50+ years. This island has always intrigued me and I can’t believe I’m actually here!! I’m beyond excited to finally be adding that Cuban stamp to my passport.
We’re staying in Habana Vieja, also known as Old Havana, the neighborhood known for it’s historic charm of cobblestone streets, colonial architecture and beautiful plazas. If you love history and architecture, stay in Habana Vieja and enjoy the hustle and bustle of being at the center of the action. The other popular alternative is Vedado, home to wide boulevards lined with weathered mansions, a hot nightlife scene and the infamous Hotel Nacional.
Hotels in Cuba are an option, but the price tag can be steep without the modern amenities we’re used to in the States. So a popular alternative is casa particulars, essentially what we call an Airbnb. This gives you the opportunity to support individual Cubans financially and allows you to interact with them on a personal level during your stay, learning more about their culture and lifestyle. Brittany and I are staying with Jorge and his wife for our first night in Havana, until our tres amigas arrive on Thursday.
After settling in at Jorge’s and getting his lecture on how to properly handle those Cuban men, we headed to La Casa Del Son for a salsa dance lesson. For those of you who know Brittany and I, you know we are never shy when it comes time to cut a rug… and while we may not be Pitbull’s back up dancers, I think we’ve got some moves. But, Yemel and Abelardo quickly put us in our place. Salsa dancing… not so easy. Thankfully they were patient teachers and thankfully we have some non-salsa moves they could appreciate. By the end of our hour lesson, we were feeling pretty confident that we were ready to hit the dance floor with them later in the evening and impress some of the locals with our new moves.
Not quite! Luckily we had the salsa club mostly to ourselves when the four of us first arrived and we had some time to practice without an audience. But as the club filled up with salsa dancing aficionadas, our confidence went down and we spent most of the night admiring the salsa kings and queens twirling and swirling around the floor. But even though our dance skills were 
humbled, we had an authentic night out in Havana and a great time with Yemel and Abe, learning more about them, their culture and their city. And good thing Jorge gave us a heads up on how to handle those Cuban men. We had so much fun, we took our friends back to La Casa del Son for another dance lesson once they arrived in Cuba.
When we weren’t testing our salsa skills… we explored!! And the best way to do that in Habana Vieja is by foot, strolling down the narrow streets that connect the charming squares and the city’s three famous plazas. The stunning Plaza de la Catedral is home to Havana’s gorgeous baroque church with elegant mansions lining the other three sides of the square. Make sure you catch a glimpse at twilight after the sun has gone down and the lights are starting to come on… it won’t disappoint. Plaza de Armas, a few blocks to the southeast, is the site of Havana’s founding and named for its use as a drill field by colonial troops. 
From the northeast entrance, you can also catch a great view of Castillo de los Tres Reyes Del Morro sitting proudly across the canal overlooking the city. And the enchanting Plaza Vieja served as Havana’s commercial hub and was the site of executions, processions, bullfights and fiestas, all watched over by Havana’s wealthiest citizens from their balconies lining the square. Take a break at one of the plaza’s sidewalk cafes to soak up the ambience and people watch. Parts of this district have been carefully restored while others are in crumbling disarray… either way, this neighborhood is exactly what you’ve been expecting if you came to Havana to step back in time.
In the Centro Habana district, you can catch a glimpse of habaneros going about their daily lives… kids playing baseball, dusty urban streets, hole in the wall cafes. This neighborhood is home to Havana’s Capitolio, modeled after Washington, D.C.’s domed Capitol building, and Parque Central, which serves as a hub for Havana’s social activities and heated debates on Cuba’s national passion… baseball. Across from the park, the brightly-colored, classic American cars line up in front of Hotel de Inglaterra and the Gran Teatro de la Habana, making for a great photo and the opportunity to hire one for a stylish ride around the city. If you’re interested in learning more about those infamous Cuban cigars, visit Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás, Havana’s best-known 
cigar factory. On weekday mornings they offer guided tours, which can be fairly rushed lasting just 15-20 minutes, but you’ll get to see glimpses of the cigar-making process up close. Don’t fall for the scam when your guide tells you he/she gets to take home 5 cigars per day and is willing to sell them to you at a 
discounted rate… They herd the interested buyers into a private room and lock the door for added theatrics and $20 USD later, you’re left with a poor quality, knock-off cigar. Centro Habana is also home to several recommended museums.
A few miles west lies Vedado, a sprawling, mostly residential neighborhood home to the well-known Hotel Nacional. This elegant, iconic landmark is worth a visit, taking you back to another era when everyone who was anyone frequented these 
grounds. You don’t have to be a hotel guest to channel your inner celeb and sip a mojito or enjoy an authentic Cuban cigar in the clifftop garden overlooking the oceanfront Malecón. This property is rich in Cuban history and just outside the lavish front gates the 1950’s classics line up waiting to take you for a spin. Brittany and I picked a red Maserati convertible with a cute Italian driver for our cruise around town. Analyzing the dashboard with all the ancient controls made me appreciate the fact that Cuban mechanics can keep these old cars running… it’s really impressive! We drove through the streets 
of Vedado, admiring the wide tree-lined boulevards and beautiful mansions, stopping at Plaza de la Revolución, Havana’s political, administrative and cultural hub. The square is dominated by the José Martí Memorial and the steel artwork picturing the two most important deceased 
heroes of the Cuban Revolution, Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos. Many notable political rallies have taken place in this square and Fidel Castro addressed more than a million Cubans here on many important occasions.
Back in our convertible we drove through Miramar, known for it’s rich real estate, especially on 5th Avenue where striking mansions and regal embassies line the boulevard. This neighborhood is mostly residential and 
is very spread out, so it’s best to explore via car. Our driver took us through Parque Almendares, known as “Havana’s forest”, lush with vegetation and a peaceful respite from the hustle and bustle of city life. We cruised the Malecón, the famous esplanade that runs 7 km along the city’s northern coastline and is home to the best sunset viewing. It’s also where the habaneros come with family, friends or their significant others to hang out and relax, staying long after the sun has gone down. If you stroll this boulevard on a hot night, you’ll feel as if the entire city is perched on the sea wall and you’ll be treated to some of the best people-watching Havana has to offer.
We also made sure to spend a day at one of Havana’s local beaches, joining the habanero sun worshippers for another authentic 
Cuban experience. The Playas del Este lie about 20-30 minutes east of Havana and are an easy cab or bus ride from the city. The local flavor was in full effect as salsa beats played from nearby blankets, the smell of cuban cigars filled the air, fresh mojitos and daiquiris were served and the habaneros danced around in the sand. The laid-back, party-like atmosphere was contagious and before we knew it, we were talking to the group of Cubans sitting next to us. By the time the sun was sinking towards the horizon, we were blasting Cuban beats and having our own dance party on the beach.
It’s also fun to explore some of the bars and restaurants Ernest Hemingway used to frequent and therefore made famous. Hotel 
Ambos Mundos’, where Hemingway used to hideaway before moving to Finca Vigía in 1939, offers panoramic views of Havana from the open-air rooftop lounge and one of the best Pina Coladas in town. He was a regular at the always packed Bodequita de Medio known for their mojitos and he frequented El Floridita, the alleged creator of the daiquiri. We wandered into El Floridita around happy hour to enjoy 
one of these famed daiquiris and instantly understood why this restaurant is a popular hang out. It was filled with people enjoying cocktails and cigars while listening to the live music being performed by a local Cuban band. We realized there was no way we were going to get a table, until a group of men offered to make room for us at the end of theirs. Everyone in the place might have been tourists, but we enjoyed the experience, picturing a similar scene back in the early 50’s when Esquire dubbed this bar one of the seven most famous in the world. We also enjoyed lunch at Sloppy Joe’s, a haven for American businesspeople and celebs, such as Ava Gardner, Frank Sinatra, boxer Joe Louis and yes, Hemingway too. The Sloppy Joe sandwich was invented here before the bar closed down in 1960 following the revolution… and then reopened again in 2013 when it quickly reestablished it’s former reputation.
And if you’re as curious about Hemingway, as you are about where he liked to drink, you might enjoy visiting his home just outside Havana, Finca Vigía, where he lived from 1939 to 1961. We attempted a Sunday morning visit following the open hours specified in our guidebook, but were disappointed to learn that the property is closed on Sundays… so double check hours before you make the trip.
When we weren’t following Hemingway’s footsteps into his favorite watering holes, we explored some of Havana’s hottest nightlife. Fabrica de Arte Cubano in Vedado, a hub for the arts and one of the hippest nightclubs in town, was a unique experience. Housed in an old oil factory, the building has multiple rooms spanning several floors with plenty of well-stocked bars. Relax in one of the galleries admiring the artwork and photographs, lounge in the wine and tapas bar, hang in the cinema or pump fists in the basement with the night’s featured DJ. Even as a group of five girls, we had to pull some strings to jump the line that was 
wrapped halfway around the next block… F.A.C. is clearly a place to see or be seen. We also hit Casa de la Música, Havana’s best known and most popular live-music venue which attracts big-name Cuban acts. And for salsa dancing, there’s one spot not to be missed… Club 1830. A gorgeous Vedado mansion is the backdrop and the outdoor garden sitting seaside is where the crowd gathers to grab a bite, a few cocktails and dance the night away under the stars. As a salsa rookie, it’s a great place to go for some practice as the locals are patient enough to teach you a few steps if you’re looking a bit intimidated.
There’s obviously plenty to keep you busy in Havana, especially if you just want to take your time getting lost in the cobblestone alleys of Habana Vieja or strolling the Malecón. We spent a total of four days here, which was enough time to explore the city’s highlights, drink plenty of Cuba Libres, Mojitos and Daiquiris and somewhat improve our salsa skills. But I’d never turn down the opportunity to spend more time getting up close and personal with Havana. It’s definitely one-of-a-kind!