Adriatic Sailing Day 4: Normandy Style
• BUDVA — KOTOR •
I decided to get up early to explore more of Budva’s Stari Grad (Old Town) before we set sail at 10am. Nik told us many people don’t believe this walled city is authentic because it was completely rebuilt after being destroyed by two earthquakes in 1979… but either way, it is charming. Narrow marbled lanes lead to quaint squares all lined with shops, cafes and restaurants full of visiting Russians and Serbs. Budva and the surrounding 15 mile stretch of coast referred to as the “Budva Riviera,” has become a hotspot for the super-wealthy Russians and their mega-yachts can be seen lining the dock right outside the Old Town’s Venetian walls or dotting the glistening waters along the coast.
I roamed around for an hour with my camera (and selfie stick, duh) and then headed to a waterfront cafe for a cappuccino.
Back on the boat by 10, I learned Nik wasn’t able to get what he needed to fix the fuse. Just when I thought “Dryer-Gate” couldn’t get any worse… it has. I’m not sure if Nik is more annoyed that I made all this extra work for him or that I continue to apologize for it. He keeps telling us Croatians are grumpy by nature, so I’m sure this is putting him over the edge… but he hasn’t kicked me, my suitcase and my hair dryer off the boat yet.
Now we’re headed to Kotor, which many deem one of Montenegro’s highlights, so I’m super excited!! It’s a three and a half hour boat ride up the coast from Budva and Nik is breaking up the ride for us with two swimming stops.
Our first swim was just outside of Budva, anchored in a bay off one of the riviera’s beaches and the second stop was at the mouth of a cave along the rocky coastline. Nik wasn’t able to anchor right up against the rocks, so he backed the boat up as close to the cave as possible and in rapid fire fashion we all had to jump off the boat, which he referred to as “Normandy Style.” We all got a kick out of that and were giggling as we lined up single file to jump into the Adriatic. But we were as quiet as possible once we swam into the cave so we wouldn’t wake the bats… ick. It was pitch black inside, but the turquoise water sparkled where the light reflected from the opening to the outside world… it was beautiful!
Aside from our two swims, Erin and I spent the day baking in the Mediterranean sun sprawled out on the boat’s bow. It was so hot it was almost unbearable, but how often do you have the chance to lay out on a sailboat cruising the Adriatic?? Exactly… so we sucked it up!
When we cruised into the vast waters of Kotor Bay, the scenery was mesmerizing and the beauty only intensified as we came through the Verige Strait. The wall of stark limestone mountain peaks in front of us was so stunning it looked fake. We all joked that it reminded us of a backdrop on a movie set.
We were still in awe of the scenery as we approached the unspoiled Adriatic town of Kotor, tucked away from the open sea in one of the deepest channels of Kotor bay, Europe’s most southernly fjord. After we docked, Nik gave us a run down of the plan for the evening. Despite breaking his boat and everything else we’ve done to annoy him, he expressed that we really are a great group and for that he’s taking us to one of his friend’s houses to have dinner with him and his family. Plus Croatia plays Denmark in the first elimination round of World Cup action, so we’ll watch the game and help Nik cheer on his team while we eat! But first we have some free time to explore, so we headed straight to Kotor’s medieval walled city.
Kotor’s Stari Grad is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and for good reason. Many believe this Old Town is more inviting than Dubrovnik, mostly due to its authenticity and much fewer tourists. A maze of museums, churches, trendy cafes, chic boutiques and charming squares beg you to aimlessly stroll the cobblestone streets getting lost in the narrow alleys or to sit down for a drink in one of the beautiful piazzas, all with the imposing mountains as your backdrop.
After a short stroll, which didn’t nearly do this idyllic town justice, Erin, Jas and I sat down for a beer and the second half of the Russia vs Spain World Cup match. All of the restaurants and cafes have big screen TVs set up on their patios and sitting in a square housing several cafes where everyone is watching the game is an experience that’s hard to beat. I just realized this is my first time traveling in Europe during a World Cup and as a big sports fan, I’m very thankful for the opportunity! The game came down to a shoot out and we all decided to sacrifice getting ready so we could stay to watch the end (and for another beer)… well worth it!
After a mad dash to the boat (Normandy Style!!), a quick refresh and a short drive through the valley, we arrived at Nik’s friends house, which was a beautiful property set back on a few acres. They had a large table set up for us in the driveway under a vine covered portico and a TV off to the side so we could watch the game while dining al fresco. They welcomed us with their many flavors of homemade grappa… I tried the walnut, which was the best version I’ve had yet! Then we sat down for a three course homemade Montenegrin feast washed down with their family’s homemade wine. Everything was delicious and it was fun (and stressful) to watch Nik and our hosts get emotional over the tense moments in the game.
We learned the Croatia futbol chant, were serenaded by the charming but humorously inappropriate uncle and held our breathe for Nik as the game came down to a shoot out. In dramatic fashion, Croatia pulled out the W on the final kick and we all erupted in celebration, singing the chant and giving out high-fives to our new friends. Everyone was in a great mood and the wine was flowing,… which was definitely better than the alternative, especially for me and my hairdryer.
Speaking of which, while we were exploring Kotor, the fuse was replaced so the boat has been fixed and we have shore power! And Nik gifted the boat with a European hairdryer so we can blow dry our hair all night long… What a guy!!