Cape Town
Cape Town, this unique city sitting at the bottom tip of Africa, has always intrigued me. As our plane was coming in to land, I was peering out my window waiting for my first glimpse of Table Mountain, the dramatic flat topped landmark that defines this city, making it one of the most iconic in the world. First settled by Dutch sailors as a supply station en route to the Far East, South Africa’s “Mother City” has always been one of determined pioneers. Now a multicultural melting pot, Cape Town is so diverse, that many debate whether it is even part of the African continent. During the three and a half days we spent exploring this city, I had to keep reminding myself that I was in Africa because the only time it felt like I wasn’t back home in the US, was when we were driving on the opposite side of the road.
Table Mountain provides an impressive backdrop towering more than 3,500 feet over Cape Town, but the views from its summit are even more jaw dropping. It feels like you’re looking out over all of South Africa. We timed our visit to Table Mountain National Park perfectly, riding the cable car to the summit about an hour before sunset.
After enjoying the breathtaking views in daylight, we found a perfect spot to relax with a sundowner while we watched the sun sink into the ocean, painting the sky in vivid shades of yellow and orange… exactly how I pictured an African sunset.
Before it was time to catch the last cable car down the mountain, I did one more loop around the top, taking in the views from every angle as the sky darkened and the city lit up below.
Visiting the beach neighborhoods of Camps Bay and Clifton, which are conveniently located just six kilometers from the city center, is an absolute must. Unfortunately we were just a little too early in the season to really experience the beach scene, so we decided to rent bikes and work our way south along the coast to experience these wealthy suburbs.
We started in Sea Point, famous for its ocean front promenade and then found ourselves on narrow and sometimes non-existent sidewalks as we biked through Clifton, home to the city’s priciest real estate. The impressive homes sit nestled in the cliffs overlooking the ocean, which you have to weave around down narrow passageways to reach the gorgeous city beaches that still manage to feel secluded and intimate.
As we came into Camps Bay, we pulled over for a break to admire the vast stretch of beach that seems to extend forever down the coast. I spotted that famous yellow and red marked clue box and knew instantly that The Amazing Race was being filmed somewhere in the vicinity. This show is one of my all time favorites and I’ve applied to be on it several times. I was so excited to spot the crew on the beach as the teams were working to complete a challenge that involved penguin suits! We watched one team run frantically to their taxi and jump in… and then we watched the taxi pull in and out of the parking spot several times so the videographer could get the shots he needed. Secrets exposed!
Camps Bay is known for its bustling main thoroughfare lined with trendy bars and restaurants, so we ditched the bikes to find a second floor establishment where we could rest our legs and grab a drink to watch the sunset. It was the perfect reward after a fun, but hilly bike ride!
The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront district appears touristy with ritzy hotels, great shopping and popular restaurants, but it’s also becoming a buzzing entertainment attraction for locals as well. We made the V&A Waterfront our home base, because it’s a safe area of the city to walk around after dark with plenty of restaurant and bar options. This quarter has a lot to offer as you wander the pedestrian only promenades snaking around the harbor, including the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art, Africa’s first in this genre and worth a visit just to see how an old grain silo was converted into this state of the art museum.
The V&A Waterfront is also the launching point to visit Robbin Island, the former maximum-security prison where Nelson Mandela spent eighteen of his twenty-seven years in confinement. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, this museum is serving a positive, empowering purpose in memory of all the prisoners who were incarcerated here.
Most tour guides are former Robbin Island prisoners, which adds to the emotional impact of the experience. Our tour guide had served a five-year sentence for participating in a political rally at his university, which really resonated with my parents who were college students during the Vietnam War era and peacefully participated in several similar rallies. It’s beyond sobering to see the tiny cells Mandela and the other prisoners were confined to while learning about the daily struggles they endured in captivity. It really makes you question humanity, but it’s an important history lesson and the boat ride to and from the Island rewards you with great views of Table Mountain.
We spent an afternoon exploring Cape Town’s city center to get a feel for the downtown neighborhoods, strolling past significant landmarks, inviting plazas, open-air markets and leafy parks. We decided to take the free city tour of Bo-Kaap, the historic home of the city’s Muslim population made famous thanks to the photographic quality of the brightly colored houses. It’s fascinating to wander the cobbled streets past mosques and the largest collection of pre-1840 architecture in the country and it’s easy to see why this neighborhood is one of the most photographed in the country.
We also spent a morning exploring the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, which features South Africa’s indigenous flora. The gardens stretch up the eastern slopes of Table Mountain providing beautiful views looking out over the city and the mountains off in the distance. It wasn’t on the top of my list of things to do in Cape Town, but it was highly recommended and proved to be a relaxing way to spend a few hours enjoying more of what this unique city has to offer.
I fell in love with Cape Town and was overcome with sadness as we said goodbye to continue our travels. With gorgeous coastline backing up to stark mountain peaks, world-class shopping, a distinguished dining scene and cutting edge art and design, this sophisticated city has it all… culture, cuisine and stunning landscapes.