Cienfuegos

Sitting on the southern coast of Cuba overlooking the Caribbean Sea, Cienfuegos has earned the nickname, “Pearl of the South.” As you come into town, you might wander what type of pearl they are referring to, but be patient.  The beauty of this carefree port city lies in the small historic center, with its colorful facades, wide streets and enchanting French colonial architecture, all of which helped Cienfuegos earn a Unesco World Heritage site listing in 2005.  And Punta Gorda, at the southernmost tip, is home to a handful of extravagant mansions built by wealthy residents of the 1920’s.   The city wraps around a natural bay, while the Sierra de Escambray provide the green mountainous backdrop off in the distance.

Settled by French immigrants in 1819, the French roots of Cienfuegos are not just evident in the architecture.  Here the progressive French culture mixes with a dynamic Caribbean spirit, making this a lively town and a compelling place to visit.  Cienfuegos is also home to Benny Moré, one of Cuba’s more famous musicians who popularized son, and his music can be heard as you stroll through the streets.  We didn’t have a ton of time here, but we managed a stop en route from Havana to Trinidad giving us a couple hours to explore.  It was definitely enough time to stroll the city’s highlights, but not enough time to really get acquainted with the spirit of the people.

We started our exploration by making our way to Parque José Martí in the historic center.  This park is surrounded by most of the important buildings in Cienfuegos, including the Catedral de la Purísima Concepción and Teatro Tomás Terry.  A mini replica of the Arc de Triomphe sits at the park’s western edge as a nod to the city’s French heritage.

We wandered down San Fernando on the southeastern edge of the park, finding a cute second-story restaurant with big open-air windows overlooking the street below that served delicious frozen daiquiris.  After lunch, we strolled through the little street market, admiring all the handmade items for sale, as well as the cheesy souvenirs, before walking along the waterfront to get back to the malecón that runs north and south through town.

We also had time for a stop at Palacio de Valle, Punta Gorda’s most impressive mansion built in 1917 by the sugar baron Asisclo del Valle.  The palace is home to what is now deemed the best restaurant in Cienfuegos, as well as, a rooftop bar that’s rumored to offer the best sunset viewing in the area.  Unfortunately we didn’t get to experience either, but we were able to enjoy the breathtaking views from the rooftop and the intricately decorated interior.

Thankful for a couple hours to explore another Cuban city, we met our driver where he had dropped us off and continued on to Trinidad.