Manuel Antonio

Monkeys and Sloths, here we come!!  Manuel Antonio, a small town built along the steep cliffs overlooking the ocean on the central Pacific coast, is home to the most visited national park in Costa Rica and one of the easiest places to see wildlife on the planet.  Manuel Antonio National Park is small, covering just 7 square kilometers, but has plenty to offer from white sand beaches to hiking trails through the jungle… from lookout points offering stunning views of the coastline to abundant wildlife, including those infamous monkeys.  This quaint town of luxury resorts, boutique hotels, eclectic restaurants and a vibrant party scene, where rain forest meets the beach, is on the tourist track, but it’s hard to argue with it’s popularity and it’s a destination not to be missed.

Megan and I had a five hour drive from Guanacaste, coming west across the Nicoya Peninsula and then south down the Pacific coast.  We went through Jaco, a famous surf town and the country’s most developed beach resort, mainly due to its proximity to Costa Rica’s capitol, San Jose.  If you’re looking to get off the beaten path, you’ll want to bypass this destination, known for it’s nightlife and prostitution, but it’s at least worth a stop at the lookout point to take in the view.

When we finally arrived in Manuel Antonio, we had a couple hours of daylight to spare, so we hurried to the beach for a little R&R.  We hit Playa Espadilla, a 2km stretch of forest-lined, white sand dotted with tourists and locals walking the surf, kicking around a soccer ball, playing volleyball, surfing, or simply soaking up the sun.  This is one of Costa Rica’s most popular beaches providing plenty of people watching and plenty of vendors selling everything you could want from snacks and drinks to massages and manicures.  If you’ve never had the opportunity to test your surfing skills, this is a great place to learn as many experts line the beach offering lessons, some guaranteeing that you’ll get up for a wave at least once before the tutorial is over.

The highlight here is definitely Manuel Antonio National Park, so devote at least one day… but the park’s beaches are known as some of the most beautiful in the country, so you might find yourself coming back for more.  It’s recommended that you arrive early, between 7-8am, because the park only allows 800 people inside at a time and closes early at 4pm.  Megan and I decided to hike first and then relax on one of the park’s beaches after our wildlife search party.  No kidding on the likely animal encounters… We weren’t even inside the park five minutes when we came across a tour group who had discovered a sloth hanging out in the branches above.  It was fascinating to watch him move around even though it took him about ten minutes to go from one branch to the other.  Megan and I opted to hike on our own because we were most concerned with seeing sloths and monkeys, which is pretty much guaranteed, even without a tour.  But if you want to see more animals and birds, it’s recommended that you hire a certified guide to help you spot the harder to find wildlife.

With a sloth already checked off our list, we headed east through the park to Playa Las Gemelas, a small, peaceful cove where the iguanas were out and about working on their suntans.  From there we hiked the steep Mirador trail to Punta Serrucho, which translates to saw tip, exactly what the zagged coastline resembles.  The views from this lookout point were beautiful, but the humidity was thick and the heat intense, so we were excited for the beach part of today’s adventure.  But before changing into our swimsuits to relax on the sand, we hiked out to Catedral Point, the western most tip of the park, which used to be an island but is now connected to the mainland by a thin strip of land.  Playa Espadilla Sur is on the north side of this strip and Playa Manuel Antonio is opposite, facing south.  Both beaches are quiet and peaceful, inviting you to relax and unwind.

And to see some more wildlife!  This is where the monkeys hang out and they’re so used to humans, that you’ll get an up close and personal experience… and maybe even a monkey selfie if you can get one to cooperate.  Its so fun to watch them run around, swing from tree to tree and attempt to steal food from park goers… we saw a monkey reach into the pocket of a baby stroller in search of food and one take a brown bag off a picnic table right in front of it’s owner.  You are warned to be extra careful with your belongings due to theft… but theft by monkeys, not humans.  We couldn’t get enough of these guys and had a blast watching them interact with all the park goers.

The Manuel Antonio sunsets are not to be missed, so make sure you hit one of the cliffside bars to watch that big orange ball sink into the water.  There are plenty of options, as restaurants and hotel bars occupy the prime real estate perched high on the cliffs overlooking the ocean… Barba Roja being one of them and where Megan and I sipped on a few cocktails while watching the sun go down.  There’s also a decent amount going on in this area after dark.  From relaxing at an open air bar with live music to hitting the dance floor at the club, you have your pick based on what kind of night you’re in the mood for.

On our last morning in Costa Rica, Megan and I decided to take a road trip an hour south to the city of Uvita in Ballena National Marine Park.  Here a tombolo, a long stretch of sand connecting a former island to the coast, resembles a whale’s tail when exposed at low tide.  We timed it perfectly based on the tide chart, but I wish I had a drone to get that bird’s eye view… it was hard to get the big picture with our toes in the sand.  The beach here, Playa Uvita, offers a long, wide stretch of sand lined with palm trees and swimmable waters.  It feels uncrowded due to its size and is a popular embarkation point for snorkeling, fishing and whale-watching tours.  We also hit Dominical, a surfer haven going through an energetic makeover and boasting a lively dining and nightlife scene.  Playa Domincal is rocky and not the best option for sunbathing, but the beachfront market and surfer drawl gives this beach it’s appealing character.

Megan and I were reluctant to pack up our beach towels and hit the road for our two and a half hour drive back to San Jose.  But we couldn’t have timed it any better, arriving at the lookout point south of Jaco just in time to watch the most perfect sunset we’d seen over the past nine days.  It must have been Costa Rica’s farewell to us… and enticing invitation to come back again soon.  I’m sure that can be arranged.  I wouldn’t say no!